Izakaya Den

Factor in a mobile phone call if you're meeting first-timers at this hidden basement bunker. They'll almost certainly need help finding it, even if they decipher the word 'DEN' on the obscure sign outside. All is revealed 17 steps down, through the heavy glass door and black curtain to where the action is frenetic, the music up and the tall timber stools rarely empty for long. Head chef Yosuke Furukawa (the biggest man behind the bar) and his hyperactive team wear bandanas and beaming smiles and offer a menu of more than 30 sharing-style treats. Try the irresistible sweetcorn 'kaki-age' (steamed kernels served with green tea salt in a light tempura batter); or a bowl overflowing with crisp school prawns served with a light yuzu mayonnaise. Simple grills include barramundi with hajikami (pickled ginger shoot). Luscious house-made tofu may be lunchtime-only, but warm tofu cake with brown-sugar icecream, or the popular tower of dried apple wafers layered with icy apple sorbet are worthy consolation.