Izakaya Fujiyama

A wall of sake bottles is the first sign that food and drink get equal treatment here, true to the concept of an izakaya or Japanese eating and drinking house. The second is a drinks menu that covers everything from sake to wine, highballs, Japanese beer and sodas. You'll kick yourself for not bringing a group to explore the full range of Japanese bar food - from grills to salads to sushi and sashimi. However, solo diner and couple-friendly stools at the bar offer great close-ups of expert cocktail and sushi making. Chef Kenji Maenaka's aromatic chicken and prawn steamed wontons are matchless, as is his crisp pork belly, which delivers first-class crackling and flesh that is so soft you'll struggle to grasp it with chopsticks. Slices of sweet, smoky, superbly marbled teriyaki beef rib are worth duelling over. Fudge-soft, super-rich chocolate cake is contrasted with yoghurt sorbet and sweet-and-sour candied cumquats. You'll be planning a re-visit before you've even paid the bill.