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Jaipur Maharaja Sweets

Indian$$

There’s a sense of chaos about this restaurant (like parts of India itself), but it certainly doesn’t stop people having a good time. Takeaway is big business, as are sweets from the huge glass counter, but most settle in at chunky timber tables under bright lights and tackle the massive menu. Jaipuri chaat – raw onion, chickpeas, yoghurt, puffed rice – is an unusual but satisfying mix of textures and temperatures. A soupy chickpea curry is, like others, more aromatic than super-hot, and the pickled accompaniments add a welcome salt hit to many dishes. Bread’s often included, so check before ordering more.

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