Jamie's Italian Sydney

Come 6pm, eager patrons crowd into two storeys of long, narrow, moodily toned rooms. Noise levels rise, the good vibe grows, enthusiastic waiters scurry, food arrives quickly in simple, value-packed Oliver abundance. There's a lovely (oops, watch the Jamie-speak, though many menu superlatives are justified) balance of creaminess and bite in linguine with rabbit, and a risotto alla milanese. A citrus edge cuts neatly sauced al dente pasta, and the risotto has the classic savoury plug of bone marrow. Salad leaves on a generous wagyu carpaccio are cleverly enlivened with endive, fennel and celery. A special grilled pork chop almost cuts with a fork, needing no more than an oil-splashed, garlic-lashed, chilli-spiked bed of cavolo nero. Even Eton mess, so often merely a mess, neatly juxtaposes chewy meringue and tangy sweet fruit compote. The bill arrives quickly and we're off smiling into the night. For once, a brand lives up to its hype.