13.5/20
European$$
Forget the frenetic buzz that often surrounds Fitzroy dining; Jorg is a cool, calm customer by comparison. The handsome once-a-warehouse space with soaring cathedral ceilings, designer light fittings and charcoal concrete floors, has typical industrial chic. But the feel is less fashion-forward, with low-key service, easy-listening music and an appealing, flexible menu, with 'small' and 'large' plates. All dishes have European heritage, such as asparagus spears with a rich coddled-egg mayo and crisp-crumbed but soft-hearted balls of goat's cheese, and a twice-baked nettle-flecked ricotta souffle. Four 'large' uncomplicated dishes (maybe roast pork loin, beef bavette, braised lamb and fish) are supplemented by a few specials, which could include whole flounder topped with salsa, fregola and frisee, and there's always a vegetarian option (and degustation), such as artichoke tortellini with sage butter. Desserts (maybe firm chocolate mousse with warm pistachio shortbreads) end the meal on a high note.
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