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Jorg

Jorg, restaurant, Fitzroy North, Melbourne.
Jorg, restaurant, Fitzroy North, Melbourne.Supplied

14/20

European$$

After a couple of years bedding down operations, Jorg has found its rhythm. Commanding a showroom-size floor space with glossy concrete floors, industrial lights and soaring timber trusses, the venue contrasts its expansive surrounds with a carefully crafted menu. Dishes balance richness with understatement, running with industry trends but also displaying flashes of idiosyncrasy. Starters include deservedly popular baccala fritters with aioli, soft-shell crab in a golden tempura-like batter with chilli, and house-made black pudding served on sweet toasted brioche with a delicately poached egg yolk. Pasta is a feature, perhaps jerusalem artichoke and nettle agnolotti with decadent sage burnt butter sauce scattered with almond biscotti for texture. Other mains might include twice-cooked duck in tender lentil stew with Italian sausage. Oozing dark chocolate and caramel pudding makes a decadent finale. Attentive but unobtrusive service hits the right note. To paraphrase Henry Higgins. by Jorg, they've got it.

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