Julius Pizzeria

There's a lot to like about Julius: the laneway location in Brisbane's cultural heartland; the sexy, semi-industrial fit-out with a cheeky nod to the Italian "ristorante" of old inherent in the arched brick doorway; and a convivial bar full of jewel-like bottles of Aperol and Cinzano.

At this newborn brother to Teneriffe's Beccofino, regulars will spot some familiar dishes but the food can lack the finesse of its older sibling.

Linguini ai gamberi, with prawns, calamari and chilli, is generous but disappointingly conservative with the heat. A classic dish of orecchiette ai broccoli with anchovies is similarly shy, while a veal "cotoletta" is plated with a lemon wedge, sliced tomato, a teaspoon quenelle of goat cheese and a basil leaf, without as much as a drop of olive oil.

What Julius does so well is wood-fired pizza. A perfectly pliable and charry-crusted margherita with a glass of chianti is perhaps the best example of the Italian "beauty in simplicity" ethos. The dessert menu includes a classic tiramisu and a more contemporary classic - nutella pizza.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe: Welcoming modern pizzeria.
Best bit: Personable, friendly staff.
Worst bit: Toilets are next door and require the retrieval of a key from staff.
Wine/drinks: Italian-focussed, appropriately priced list.
Quick bite: There's a sophisticated "bambini" menu.