Kai Sydney

The newest kiddie-san on Neutral Bay's Japan-Town block is located at the rear of an uninspired arcade off Military Road. No surprises there, then. But Kai is owned by Masamichi Kakinuma, a former sake brewer, and his expertise is reflected in the well-considered list. The menu features the usual suspects, including teriyaki chicken and assorted tempura, but there are surprises, too, including a rather witty Japanese take on Chinese roast duck and pancakes, served with special miso sauce and rare, thin, beautifully tender slices of poultry ready for wrapping. Then there's a wonderfully plump steamed prawn and scallop dumpling and a must-read list of daily specials. Jumping ahead to desserts, there's even a droll affogato made with green tea. Sushi and sashimi are excellent, although a medium-rare wagyu beef came to the table slightly over-cooked. Service is friendly and unintimidating. So, just a few surprises, but no nasty shocks, either.