Kalevu

The generation gap is alive and well at Kalevu. Despite the fact that the kitchen team are all in their early 20s, this is a very grown-up space. The restaurant is routinely filled with well-heeled neighbourhood folk of an age that appreciates a certain level of low lighting, and reliable dishes that are whimsically presented and seasonally driven. An entree of cured kingfish blushed with beetroot is freshened up with the addition of figs and baby herb salad, while herb-crusted scallops are simply presented and beautifully cooked. Although the main courses are less dramatic, the depth of flavour in a slow-roasted lamb roulade marries beautifully with a creamy quenelle of Paris mash and a frisky watermelon salsa. Eye fillet is equally well-paired with pickled currants, shaved red cabbage and parsnip puree. Drizzling the cheese platter with swirls of lavender honey is a clever touch; but maybe not for those who have chosen cheese as an alternative to dessert.