Kalevu

Chips are a popular choice at this modern bistro, located in an inconspicuous row of highway-side shopfronts. And it’s easy to understand why. Fat, beer-battered and seasoned with sea salt, they’re pretty hard to resist. Luckily the large deep-frying basket they’re served in offers a seemingly never-ending supply. But they’re only a side attraction to the appealingly French-influenced menu from welcoming owner/chef Luc Dumoulin. Salmon carpaccio is light and fresh but was missing a kick of citrus. Crisp soft-shell crab is sweet with a light crunch, aioli adding flavour. The meat just falls from the bone of the generous serve of twice-cooked duck. It is paired with an intense cherry sauce, sweet, pickled cabbage and a cauliflower puree so good it would convert even the toughest member of the anti-cauli brigade. Dessert is another major highlight: thick, dark chocolate custard is crusted with a pleasingly thick brulee top. Crack and dive in.