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Kazuki's

Good Food hat15/20

In a homely dining room, with double-clothed tables, paper lanterns and a striking samurai mural, Kazuki Tsuya quietly goes about his work, fusing impeccable French technique and Japanese ingredients in dishes that are elegant and invigorating. Fresh-baked bread arrives with a smudge of seaweed-and-plum butter. Plump dumplings of Moreton Bay bug sit in a delicate sake emulsion, sparked by the citrus-soy tang of ponzu jelly. A special of Ceduna oysters comes with a trio of flavours, perhaps zippy shiso salsa, a sliver of abalone, and tempura-fried with a dollop of sauce gribiche. Mains are equally memorable. Seared duck breast, for instance, might come with a crisped nori roll of confit leg, a golden orb of foie gras and sweet-tart plum sauce. Intuitive service further elevates the experience, as waitstaff astutely suggest matches from the precise wine and sake list. This clever pairing shines in a millefeuille of quince, blue cheese and walnuts, partnered with a floral sparkling sake.

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