Kenzan @ GPO

Kenzan GPO is to Kenzan in Collins Street (in the biz for 30-odd years) what Willy and Kate are to the royal family- a fresh, more fashionable face to a venerable institution. Kenzan GPO, in the laneway-located dining precinct of the old post office, pumps at lunch. No seat is left unoccupied, the lunch-hour clock is ticking, and there's a real buzz. Fresh sushi, sashimi and hand rolls stock the glass cabinet (but never for long), while bowls of ramen, soba or udon noodles in broth come with a variety of toppings, such as chicken breast, julienne carrot and shiitake. Or, share an entree (slippery agedashidofu) and main (sticky-sweet grilled eel on rice)- fit for a king.