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Kin by Us

Amy McNeilage

Open plan: Share tables add to the homely look at Kin By Us.
Open plan: Share tables add to the homely look at Kin By Us.Christopher Pearce

Asian

Kin by Us is a cafe focused on family, more than just in name.

The long share tables and open kitchen were chosen to give the impression you are eating in someone's home.

Owners Shannelle and Uel Lim, who many will remember from My Kitchen Rules, are married and the decorative shelves display ornaments from their parents' homes.

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Pork belly waffles at Kin By Us.
Pork belly waffles at Kin By Us.Christopher Pearce

When it came to designing the menu for their Macquarie Park cafe, the inspiration was obvious: familiar food from the homes they grew up in. For Uel, that means the flavours of Singapore, where he was born, while Shannelle is influenced by her Indonesian-Chinese heritage.

The sweet kaya spread they make in-house, for example, is eaten on toast every morning by locals in Singapore and Malaysia, much like peanut butter or Vegemite in Australia. The creamy jam, made of pandan and coconut, is smeared across lightly toasted white bread. In southeast Asian coffee houses it is commonly served with a large knob of butter and an egg on the side. At Kin they decided to hold the butter, which it certainly doesn't need, but they do offer an optional onsen egg.

All the eggs served here are onsen tamago, slow-cooked eggs with a custardy texture and a golden yolk that looks runny but holds its shape.

The soft shell crab brioche.
The soft shell crab brioche.Christopher Pearce
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Some of the dishes served at Kin - congee and chicken rice - do not stray far from their traditional form.

Others, like the waffle belly, take typical Asian breakfast foods and reinterpret them for a cafe setting. The rich Singaporean-style braised pork belly is paired with a potato waffle and served with an egg, marinated mushrooms and cabbage.

Keen MKR fans peek into the kitchen to watch Shannelle or Uel plate their food. Whoever is not in the kitchen runs the floor (they alternate), patiently posing for the occasional selfie request.

Later we hear the friendly man who floats from table to table, chatting to customers and clearing the odd plate, is Uel's father. Shannelle jokes her father-in-law likes to "play maître d'".

For one episode of the TV show, the couple cooked soft-shell crab, which is a must-try at Kin. The generous serving of lightly battered crab is propped up on a brioche baguette lined with peanut sauce, coriander and fresh chilli. It's served from 11.30am as part of a shorter lunch-only menu that also includes crispy-skin chicken rice and a selection of daily sandwiches.

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While the food options are diverse, more than half the menu at Kin is devoted to drinks, including a decent selection of teas, iced teas, daily juice and shake specials, a root beer float, and affogato made with vanilla or durian ice-cream. The durian is quite strong on its own but softens to a lovely sweet flavour when drowned in a shot of Reuben Hills espresso.

It is prudent to note the newly opened cafe fills quickly on weekends. On the Saturday we visit, a decent crowd hovers outside by 12.30pm, but an efficient seating system means no one waits too long.

The menu warns "come early, come often" as all items are limited and can sell out on busy days. Parking in the area is sparse but it is only a short stroll from the closest train station.

The young locals we share our table with all agree Kin is a welcome change from the abundance of Chinese restaurants and franchise eateries in the area. They are thankful they no longer have to "trek into Surry Hills or Alexandria" for a trendy cafe meal.

THE LOW-DOWN
THE PICKS
Kaya toast, waffle belly, sub-marine
THE COFFEE
Reuben Hills
THE LOOK
Open and vibrant with homely warmth
THE SERVICE
Enthusiastic and helpful

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