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Kokoroya

Sarah McInerney

Japanese

Kokoroya is billed as a family-friendly restaurant, and walking in the front door there's no mistaking this is the case.

There's a small, fenced-off play area at the entry stocked with brightly coloured toys and a TV screen showing an animated movie.

Among the hustle and bustle, preschoolers play with siblings or newly made friends while their parents keep a watchful eye from tables along the railing. Elsewhere, older children sit with their families, chattering away. There are a few couples as well, and some groups of twentysomething friends.

It's Sunday lunchtime on a particularly rainy weekend and the restaurant is three-quarters full. The fact people are willing to leave their homes in a downpour is a testament to its popularity.

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We are out with our eight-year-old nephew and have promised him free reign over the menu - within reason. Such a promise can lead to ending a Japanese meal with chocolate fondue, as we are about to find out.

Arriving in the middle of the lunch service, we are led to a bamboo-encased booth at the back of the L-shaped seating area. This material has been incorporated throughout the bright, light, modern interior with concrete floor and high ceiling. Buzzers on the table ensure service is only a button push away but during our visit these are hardly necessary. The service is attentive, informed and friendly. We feel welcome from the moment we arrive to the moment we leave, which makes for a very relaxed lunch - not always the case when eating out with children. For us, this is the big drawcard of Kokoroya, although the food is also worth a mention.

It certainly isn't the best Japanese food we've eaten at that price range but it is fresh, tasty and better still, it comes out fast. Special requests from the youngster at the table sees bowls of miso soup and mini sushi rolls filled with cooked tuna arrive at the table. They don't last long. Next up is the salmon nigiri sushi, the meaty and crispy gyoza dumplings, and the finger-licking goodness of the karaage (fried chicken). These are ordered from the ''chotto'' menu - cut-down versions of dishes on the main menu. It's ideal for foodies and fussy eaters, a bit like a sushi train only in much nicer surroundings and fresher, as it is prepared to order.

From the main menu, we devour mixed tempura of prawns, fish and vegetables including pumpkin, eggplant, carrot and zucchini with a dipping sauce and grated radish. The batter is light and not overly oily.

One for the adults is the goma-ae - tomato and spinach served with a white sesame sauce, and avocado and green beans with the black sesame equivalent. A cold dish, it is light but strongly flavoured from the nutty sesame seeds.

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The only real miss in our choices is the nasu dengaku, deep-fried eggplant topped with a sweet red miso paste and sesame seeds. The eggplant isn't cooked properly.

On the dessert menu, a picture of marshmallows inspires the chocolate fondue finale. This is also served with strawberries, banana, and wafer biscuits.My favourite is the banana, but we agree the chocolate is very nice eaten alone.

Our nephew's verdict on the experience: ''We should come here again with my mum and dad.''

Menu A family-friendly venue serving Japanese food.
Value
Good. Chotto (small) plates $2.50 to $11.10, lunch specials (sets and bento boxes) $11.50 to $21.50, noodles $8.50 to $16.80, hot mains $12.80 to $24.80, desserts $5.50 to $18.80.
Recommended dishes
Goma-ae, tempura, gyoza, chicken karaage, salmon nigiri, chocolate fondue.

KOKOROYA
665-667 Anzac Parade, Maroubra, 8347 2226
Lunch and dinner, seven days
Fully licensed, BYO wine only

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