Koots Salle a Manger

Trying to secure a booking at this 14-year-old restaurant, snuggled into the side of the Kooyong hill, is the first clue that its allure is undimmed. The small, well-crafted menu and classic white room still feel as fresh and luxurious as the upholstery on the new Mercs parked outside. With French sparkling wine splashing into good glasses at the marble bar, linen-topped tables, and the happy hum of people enjoying the pretty garden courtyard, Koots has a comfortable sophistication. Owner-chef Patrice Repellin greets regulars with a double kiss - and it's easy to see why so many make the return. His gazpacho enlivened with scallop ceviche, or twice-cooked chicken with tarragon sauce, may make you want to join the coterie, too. The French fare is elegant, seasonal and time-honoured, but there is always innovation. oysters with vodka, ginger and lime granita; a bouillabaisse deconstructed with paella rice; or perhaps rum baba scattered with honeycomb.