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Kubrick's

Rachel Olding

Artful: The carefully curated Kubrick's has a loyal crowd.
Artful: The carefully curated Kubrick's has a loyal crowd.Lidia Nikonova

Modern Australian$$

At a time when every second bar in Sydney seems to be American or speakeasy-themed, it's refreshing to see a little drinking hole taking its inspiration from abstract sculptures, vinyl records and crisp white shirts, without a tattoo or whisky-drenched beard in sight.

Of course, the great irony here is that clean-shirted Timothy Maxwell's bar is named after an American filmmaker (not just because we're on Stanley Street, but because Maxwell loves the way he does things), but this place treads a different path.

Clean lines and light walls are accompanied by abstract graphic sculptures by local artist Dion, and Maxwell spins carefully chosen records from jazz to James Blake.

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Spiced boulevardier Negroni.
Spiced boulevardier Negroni.Lidia Nikonova

Everything is so heavily curated it almost feels like you're awkwardly tip-toeing around a work of art rather than hanging in a comfy neighbourhood bar, but there is plenty to help you settle in.

Maxwell and cocktail maestro Dee Stewart are super-friendly and growing a loyal crowd with meatballs and magnums on Mondays, and Negroni nights on Thursdays.

Not surprisingly, they know how to do a darn fine Negroni and have 15 variations on Thursdays, from the wonderful (plum pisco, Aperol and Dolin sweet, $15) to the weird (beetroot gin, campari, Punt e Mes, $15).

Cocktails are simple but punchy and, aside from the Negronis, include a deliciously rich Coffee and Smoke (Stolen spiced coffee rum, walnut choc spice bitters, vanilla, $17).

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The bar staff are also overly keen to custom-make something to tickle your fancy.

Tell them what flavours you like and they'll return with a crazy concoction that is perfect if you have neither the patience nor the eyesight to read the menu's tiny font. The cocktails get a good run, but the wines are actually Kubrick's first love. An ever-changing list on a blackboard behind the bar might include a delicious La Syrah syrah from Victoria's Jamshed one night, a French Domaine Pichot vouvray the next. I'll happily drink both.

Food is kept simple - cheese plates of manchego, triple-cream brie, unfiltered olive oil and springy Brickfields bread ($25), meatballs made by a Hunters Hill provedore, ($10) and a simple pasta and bruschetta of the day (both $10).

The aesthetic may seem painfully arty, but the rest is just right - food and drink that's not too fancy and not too complicated.

Considering Maxwell is just 25 years old, you have to tip your hat to him. He's brought together a bunch of talented young folk and given them a space to share both their skills and their Negronis. I'll drink to that.

THE LOW-DOWN
You'll love it if … you like an arty bar that's interesting to look at
You'll hate it if … you just want a cosy little drinking hole
Go for … Negroni, Coffee and Smoke, cheese plate

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