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Kumo Izakaya

13.5/20

Japanese$$

A long list of boutique Japanese beers, pages of shochus and other spirits, and an even longer list of sakes justify a trip to this boisterous Brunswick East dining bar - even before you turn to the food. This is an authentic Japanese pub (izakaya) experience. sophisticated food and drink in an informal, Japan Moderne setting. Kumo has one of Melbourne's best sake lists, with detailed explanations and points of comparison, which is well worth studying online before arrival, though knowledgeable staff will cheerfully help. The food is excellent modern Japanese, relying on quality produce and crafted with drinking and sharing in mind. Rich and buttery kurobuta pork pie is justifiably popular, but specials such as salt-grilled kingfish wing are worth investigating. There are familiar items here, but why go for (admittedly good) gyoza when you can try whitebait tempura with shichimi mayo or spicy black vinegar karaage chicken? Alternatively, let the chefs decide and go for a sake-matched omakase.

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