La Grande Bouffe

In the 1973 French film La Grande Bouffe, a group of gourmands gathers to eat themselves to death. But at this popular, cosy Rozelle bistro, a luscious creme brulee with a tart rhubarb compote is about as debauched as things get. On a warm evening, big windows welcome the breeze and traffic barrelling down Darling Street, adding to the chatter and clatter bouncing off dark timber furnishings and floorboards. The more provincial dishes shine, including plump poached oysters in a smoky ham-hock broth with shredded ham, kipfler potato, herbs and cucumber. Twice-cooked beef cheeks on parsnip cream is French for comfort food, while scallops wrapped in bacon with blue-cheese mousseline and peas is pretty, but lacks the promised punch. A humble dish of baked tomato and zucchini with thickly sliced, buttery lamb and a zingy anchovy beurre blanc foam totally steals the show.