La Pesa Trattoria

Yes, you'll find that classic Milanese dish here. saffron-infused risotto topped with a hulking hunk of melting osso buco. It's rich, glossy and served complete with a marrow fork to ensure you get to every last luscious bit. But as good as it is, it doesn't hold a candle to La Pesa's pasta dishes. The fazzoletti for example - 'handkerchief' pasta, handmade and pinched into big floppy bow ties, served with porcini, portobello mushrooms, black truffle and a thick tomato sugo - is that perfect mix of honest comfort food and 'how'd they do it?' revelation. Enjoy it seated by bi-fold doors opened to the street, or in one of the cosy candlelit rooms inside, picture rails lined with bottles of vino. The muted flavours of seared pine-nut crusted tuna - the fish of the day - failed to excite; but an antipasto of oozy burrata mozzarella with cherry tomatoes, balsamic glaze, fresh mint and basil and a refreshing dessert of strawberry, lemon and peach sorbet make great bookends.