La Scala on Jersey

This first-floor eyrie maintains a New World/Old World equilibrium, be it the funky fit-out in a deco space, a globe-trotting wine list presented by savvy, chirpy staff, or the deft reworking of classic Italian flavours. Whether dishing up a delicate, correctly al dente risotto of aged carnaroli rice, porcini and truffled cream, or a melting hunk of grass-fed beef short-rib with charred enokis and spring onion, the kitchen doesn't miss a beat. Grilled Fremantle octopus arrives nestled among a crunchy frizz of hair-thin fried potato, scattered with peas and gremolata; olive-crusted deep-sea perch is juicy and salty-sweet, offset by cicoria, pine nuts and vincotto. An appealing vegetarian 'grazing menu' adds to offerings on the main list, such as 'Tuscan fries' (a crisp lucky-dip of shoestring chips, olives, rosemary and garlic). And while the intense chocolate Nemesis cake rightfully remains a signature, a buttermilk panna cotta with vin santo-poached figs gives it a run for its money.