Ladro Gertrude

It's often tempting to say 'let's just get pizza', but Ladro's fine versions make those times an occasion. Their bottoms are thin (and gluten-free, if you like), and include toppings like mozzarella and 'carciuga' (anchovy and artichoke paste), and winning go-tos like puttanesca (anchovies, capers, chilli and olives). But the other half of Ladro's Italian menu is worth exploring, too. It includes impressive entrees like scorched white peach segments topped with gorgonzola, strewn with walnuts and drizzled with sweet balsamic. Simple, trattoria-style mains include a fish dish and a steak, plus risotto and house-made fresh pasta - maybe a delightful prawn-packed ravioli in a perky pea sauce set off with a smidgen of sweet mustard fruits. It's refined good-value grub in a noisy room with voices ricocheting around the sleek, hard-surfaced interior. Service may be a bit too casual (water glasses left empty, menu knowledge patchy), but expect sweet endings with desserts like vanilla-speckled panna cotta with salted caramel.