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Le Relais Bressan

Le Relais Bressan Article Lead - narrow
Le Relais Bressan Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14/20

French$$

Thierry Clerc was given his first apron at eight years of age. At 46, he maintains the same boyish passion for food, and that apron now hangs proudly framed on the wall of his Flaxton restaurant among the decorative farmhouse kitchen clutter. Thierry's commanding French-accented voice and larger-than-life presence could, like the rich sauces of his dishes, easily become caricatures overpowering the experience, but they never do. This is a dining spot for the flavour seeker, not the calorie-counter, as the house-smoked salmon salad comes well-dressed in a fashion not often encountered these days. The poisson du jour might be dory bathed in a sauce of cream, riesling, lemon and salt that surprisingly lifts the delicate flavour of the fish rather than drowns it. The slight discomfort of the rustic, unairconditioned restaurant on a hot day is forgotten as the shared assiette dessert and cheese platters make their way to the table to finish. You might come to the Maleny hinterland for the view but you'll return for the food.

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