L'etoile

A pretty Paddington terrace, good lighting, a jazzy soundtrack, French-accented waiters and an unashamedly Gallic menu instantly pinpoint L'etoile as a crowd-pleaser. So start with a crowd-pleasing chicken liver and foie gras parfait - a luxuriously giddy combination when scooped up with cracking crispbreads and a DIY topping of silken prune jam, pickled cornichons and peppery rocket. Salade de beetroot [sic] is a deconstructed bouquet. dazzling heirloom beets adorned with pretty, petit beet shoots, dollops of fresh goat's curd and streaks of beetroot vinaigrette. A risotto of pearl barley with wild mushrooms is earthy and aromatic, simply anointed with parmesan, olive oil and salt. Pan-fried ocean trout is cooked with care; enjoy it as it falls apart, marrying with a musky warm lentil salad and delicate chicken and walnut jus. Devour your creme brulee in contented silence. shatter the caramel glass top to reveal creamy custard with a big whack of vanilla. L'etoile is quite the star.