Lezzet

It can be as bustling as the Grand Bazaar at this ever-expanding Elwood eatery, which now straddles three shopfronts on busy Brighton Road. It gives culinary young Turk Kemal Barut more space to showcase his upmarket, modern twist on traditional Ottoman favourites. Start with a mezze platter that might include house-made dried beef bastourma, scallop and prawn mousse wrapped in crisp strands of kataifi pastry, and finger-licking good lamb ribs marinated in honey and sumac. It's hard to resist the super-tender, if subtly flavoured, Anatolian lamb cooked slowly for 18 hours, while Atlantic salmon wrapped in vine leaves, served with a pinot grigio reduction and splodges of date mousse (an example, perhaps, of too much action on one plate) is one of a plethora of seafood offerings. Service in the dusky ethnic-meets-decorator dining rooms is friendly if often flat-out. The kids are sure to like the selection of wood-fired Turkish pizzas - and you might have to fight them off when Barut's elegant take on baklava with mascarpone hits the table for dessert.