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Little Bertie's

Kylie Northover

Little Bertie's brings its wares, including this pork, to the plate.
Little Bertie's brings its wares, including this pork, to the plate.Eddie Jim

American (US)

WHERE AND WHAT

At Berties Butcher in Swan Street, Richmond, renowned for its locally and ethically sourced meats and smallgoods, the staff have taken their love of the business a step  further and will even cook some of their wares for you. They have installed a smoker in the shop’s back courtyard and fitted out the cosy space with plants and tables, and  created Little Bertie’s.

Offering breakfast and amazing smoked meat lunches, Little Bertie’s staff use their own goods, which they butcher themselves, and there is a changing lunch menu of two
meat dishes each day.

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Little Bertie's cafe in Richmond.
Little Bertie's cafe in Richmond.Eddie Jim

Co-owner Jason Gabriel, formerly of Cookie, and his colleagues have overhauled the backyard themselves. It’s a simple set-up (lunch is even served on
sturdy paper plates) and a fun, casual vibe.

WHERE TO SIT

The courtyard has plenty of tables and old schoolhouse-style chairs, and while you can’t get much more gritty and urban – down a laneway, out the back of a shop,  overlooking a car park and the railway line beyond – hanging plants and a vertical garden create the feel of a beer garden.

There are also some simple bench seats in a small back room leading directly off the shop, thought to have once been the shop’s cool room (Berties has been a butcher shop since the 1870s), where huge slabs of marble line the walls.

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WHEN TO GO

Open for breakfast and lunch from Wednesday to Sunday, 7am-3pm.

DRINK

The coffee is from artisan micro- roaster Syndicate and soft drinks from Daylesford & Hepburn Mineral Springs. The owners hope to get their liquor licence new year, which bodes very well, indeed, for lazy summer-autumn afternoons.

EAT

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While lunch might be a vegetarian’s nightmare, the breakfast menu features a couple of meat-free dishes – although carnivores might argue the bacon roti made with free-range bacon, avocado and tomato ($7) is the highlight. But there’s the bargain Little Bertie’s Bircher with vanilla yoghurt and house-made preserves for $5, the smashed  avocado with lemon, roasted tomato salsa, cucumber and spinach ($12) and toasted fruit loaf for $4. There’s also the beautifully alliterative baked eggs– Bertie’s baked bumnuts with brisket and beans ($12) and the brekky sandwich, a breakfast sausage with house-made sauce for $6.

But the hero here is the daily barbecue – it could be a choice of brisket or pulled pork one day, lamb shoulder and pork belly the next – with sides of slaw, chunky chips and a brioche served on a disposable plate for $15. Or you can have your meat served in the brioche bun with one side for $12. It’s great value for a big serve of ethically produced, top-shelf meat.

WHO’S THERE

It’s early days, so mostly the butcher shop’s loyal customers, but word is spreading and Little Bertie’s is already crowded at weekends.

WHY BOTHER

It’s the best barbecue you’ve ever been to where you don’t have to bring your own food.

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