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Little Hunter

14/20

Steakhouse$$$

Let's say a huntin', shootin', fishin' all-American guy has this dark, underground city lair where he barbecues his catch into awesome stuff to eat. Little Hunter has a backwoods-meets-basement theme that manifests in painstakingly sourced produce - grass-reared steaks, rare-breed pig - delivered to wooden tabletops and U-shaped private banquettes with plenty of smoke and attitude. Whether you're looking for delicacy - a sublime entree of wagyu carpaccio with a lovely lick of chicken parfait - or diner-style excess, with the cheesy complimentary bread - there's character in everything. A share plate of wood-roasted wedges of saddleback pork - maybe slices of belly and shoulder - has curly kale and cider vinegar to cut the richness. Or you might choose blue cod with braised leek and spears of seaweed. Chatty waitstaff see you off with fabulous licorice ice-cream on popcorn-textured milk solids and candied citrus rind.

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