Loam

Whether the rolling olive groves you see from Loam are lit by the moon, lashed by the rain or sparkling in summer, it's a sunny place to be, warmed by the easy country hospitality of an on-song service team and Aaron Turner's inspired cooking. The room's a simple box on a farm on an unmade road. Tables are bare and a produce-laden bench is the centrepiece, but it's beguiling. Submit to innovative set menus of four to nine courses. Whatever you've singled out from a card listing the day's ingredients, alluring dishes will follow. Spanner crab with sweetcorn custard and beach plants. Sweet bay bug with curls of pigs' ear crackling, tapioca and lush broth. The tenderest Angus short rib with a ribbon of beetroot, apple vinegar and sprigs of yarrow. Smoked, house-churned butter, for potato sourdough. The surprising conclusion is one of the year's most brilliant desserts, onion icecream with honeycomb - stunningly sublime.