Lochiel House

This adorable little piece of history, built in 1825, has seen many incarnations, from hostelry to home, art gallery and, of course, in latter years, restaurant. Its wonky floor, low ceilings and small rooms and nooks make for a most personal experience. Chef Wayne Jenkins is a disciple of the nose-to-tail ethos, and although his meaty menu might be a tad heavy for some, his respect for produce is evident. Egg yolk in the half shell rests on top of rump steak tartare; capers, anchovy, Tabasco and Co. linger on the side, ready to be mixed through. Fillet of salmon is lightly tea-smoked and prettily pink in the centre, while twice-cooked pork belly, trotter croquettes and tail hash delivers a winning trifecta. Beef comes three ways. as a cottage pie of cheek, hanger steak and bone marrow, with spinach puree and sprouts for greenery. Lemon and meringue - cheesecake with lemon curd and lemon verbena ice-cream - is as delicious as it is decorative.