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Longrain

Good Food hat15/20

Thai$$$

The bad news is you still need to arrive early to snare a table at this no-bookings trailblazer. Longrain has defied the departure of founding chef Martin Boetz to remain Melbourne's Thai leader, where cocktails are as considered as the curries, and a nightclub atmosphere underscores the energy of the exactingly authentic food. Some dishes have the familiarity of old friends - sticky caramel pork balanced on a juicy bite of pineapple or soft betel leaves folded around a seductive mix of smoked trout, mint and chilli. Beyond a short list of one-bite wonders, dishes are for sharing. Crisp-skinned, twice-cooked chicken with black vinegar and roasted red chilli, or aromatic beef stir-fry with turmeric, ginger, basil and eschalots are blessed with an able support cast including salt-and-pepper tofu in sweet soy. The fun continues to the end with banana pudding or the ascetic purity of a scoop of coconut sorbet.

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