Lowlands

Like an irresistible tide, third-wave coffee heads north, and in this light-filled space fitted out with wreckers' yard timber and Australian hardwoods is the Thornbury beachhead. A two-head Synesso pushes out a Small Batch house blend and varying single origins such as the Bolivia Bolinda espresso ($3.50) with a buttered toast nose, grapefruit palate and slight charcoal aftertaste. The menu is unfussy, reasonably priced and includes a page of single-estate teas. Pressed roti filled with halved tomatoes, prosciutto and provolone ($10) makes a clean, simple, refreshing lunch. This is the spot for cold press, French press, Aeropress or pourover (from $5) out north, with seasonal single origins from Small Batch and other local roasters. Larsen & Thompson teas are brewed in an infuser at the bar and served sans leaves to avoid over-brewing.