Lucio Pizzeria

Everyone comes to this Darlinghurst piazza for Lucio's terrific pizza, so let's cut to the chase. It's so good you could be in Naples, with a slender, slightly crisp base, a puffy, raised edge, a rich tomato coating and the topping of your choice. The great classic is the napoletana, with the assertively southern Italian staples of olives, capers and anchovy. Or go for a margherita, also born in Naples, melted here with imported buffalo mozzarella. The Lucio is half margherita and half calzone, a folded crescent filled with ricotta and prosciutto. Otherwise there are antipasti, such as calamari fritti with the crisp coating worthy of a Naples street stall (friggitoria), despite a slightly chewy texture. Zucchini flowers are stuffed with a gloriously oozy ricotta, the tiny new zucchini left on the stem. A rocket, pear and parmesan salad was rather ordinary by comparison. Desserts are simple, such as an affogato of gelato drowned in Frangelico and a dark Neapolitan-style espresso.