Lulo Tapas and Wine Bar

WHERE AND WHAT

If you never thought Hawthorn could go off, you haven't been to Lulo on a Friday night. Launched nearly six years ago by owner and head chef Matt Waldron, Lulo is clearly a hit with locals, who line its long, white-marble-topped bar as the cocktail man theatrically stirs up Menorca Corkers and Vanilla Banditos (at $17 a pop). Waldron's wife is Colombian, which explains the South American and Spanish-inspired tapas menu - as well as the bar's name. "Lulo" is Colombian slang for "sexy woman" - and in winter this is one hot place. The heating's turned up and so are the well-heeled locals.

WHERE TO SIT

Lean young waiters with edgy tattoos, who look more Fitzroy than Hawthorn, swish purposefully and flirtatiously about the long, narrow room, one arm tucked affectedly behind their back. View their hyper antics from the bar, where you can sit on fat, white vinyl stools under the dim glow of large, low-dangling exposed globes. High tables with stools run parallel to the bar and are more snug than they appear. Head for the "proper" tables and chairs down the front, or the well-padded benches and tables up the back if you'd rather play relaxed and comfortable.

WHEN TO GO

Tuesday to Sunday, 4.30-11pm, Wednesday to Saturday, noon to 3pm.

DRINK

Frankly, the wine list had me drooling more than the food: it's a tempting inventory from Argentina, Chile, Spain and our own trusty shores, with helpful explanatory notes. Specials by the glass are listed on a chalkboard, or reeled out to you by waiters with astonishing memories. Spanish beers and cheekily named cocktails complete the damage. The house speciality is the Spanish Quaalude, named after the recreational drug and featuring an extreme mix of spirits that erupts into a pyrotechnic blast when set alight.

EAT

What's a tapas bar without tick-the-box staples such as patatas bravas, jamon, croquetas and churros? Of course you'll find these, but Waldron also has an adventurous side (creating chorizo poached in apple cider, for instance) and his sous vide spanner crab, with avocado, pickled garlic, avruga caviar and lemon foam is an exquisite surprise. But some dishes, such as the calamari with squid-ink rice and fennel salsa, can lack the smoky, briny punch that you expect with this sort of cuisine. But hey, it's food that goes down easily with drinks.

WHO'S THERE

Silver foxes of both genders, sharply dressed thirtysomethings and newly liberated (read: divorced) Hawthorn ladies skolling their celebratory Spanish Quaaludes.

WHY BOTHER

Because it's fun to see how the other half whoops it up.

Lulo Tapas and Wine Bar - 798 Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn, 9818 8321