15.5/20
Contemporary$$$
Malt is a heritage charmer with a heart of gold in the middle of the city. Above the welcoming bar downstairs (and a private dining room below ground) is The Attic, where earthy exposed brick, a high beamed ceiling and often the tinkling of the grand piano set a timeless and alluring ambience. By day, light streams in through the old double-hung window; by night, flickering candles create a sense of intimacy. On the menu, sure-footed classics shine with modern brushstrokes. An entree of ratatouille-stuffed roasted zucchini flowers comes with goat’s curd, smoked tomato and dukkah, and is a picture-perfect rustic dish, while a tender sous-vide Milly Hill lamb rump is served with a richly umami neck jus, silky herbed gnocchi and beautifully presented seasonal vegetables. Desserts, such as the fine apple tart with brandy snap and macadamia ice-cream, are an elegant and a satisfying ending – unless you want to opt for cheese and another look at the very fine wine list.
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