Mamak

A semi-permanent queue outside Mamak marks it as ‘must eat at’ territory. Those waiting watch cooks make roti in the window up front – the thin, flaky bread resulting from dough being swirled and folded at triple speed. Inside hums, and service is swift. Lamb curry has big chunks of slow-cooked meat in a rich, aromatic sauce. Murtabak – roti generously filled with meat, cabbage, egg and onion – is a meal in itself, while chargrilled beef skewers are irresistible plunged into sweet, chunky satay sauce. A sugary cone-shaped roti with ice-cream for dessert is yet another justification for that queue.