Manta

Run the gauntlet of flashy Finger Wharf diners - from Aki's turmeric-and-cumin aromas to Otto's mod-Italian - and in between there's a seafood spot. just right when you're this close to the harbour and all that swims in it. And all that sails on it, too - note gleaming white trophy boats anchored alongside. Manta is a class act with a stated mission. to serve meticulously sourced produce, cooked well. Oysters are opened to order, their provenance changing daily. Or there's squeaky-fresh king salmon carpaccio with tingly horseradish cream, and good-sized scallops with spiced carrot puree and fregola. Farmed trout on a pearl barley risotto with hints of olive and tomato has the crisp-skin thing nailed, while pan-fried garfish on a kipfler salad is judiciously sweet-fleshed. Efficient if abrupt servers will confidently rally wine and sides. A rare Rangers Valley eye fillet takes care of meat lovers - with hand-cut fries and rocket salad, of course. Dessert is an Amadei chocolate fondant, suitably oozy. Manta mission accomplished.