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Mao's

Chinese$$

A gritty black-and-white photographic mural of an urban Chinese street covers an entire wall of this long, narrow dining room. With its close and comfy seating and friendly staff, it all feels terribly communal and joyful. Dishes come, steam-pluming, from the kitchen. Cubes of tofu with whole charred red chillies is simultaneously sweet, hot and tangy. Potato prawns are covered with strings of potato, like little balls of yarn, while the evocatively named 'ants climbing trees' is a comforting minced chicken, chilli and vermicelli dish. Even special fried rice is taken to the next level- fluffy, not oily, and gem-studded with bright prawns and bok choy. A real cut above.

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