Margan

With a carbon footprint of 'just 20 muddy steps' from a sizeable kitchen garden that supplies vegetables, fruit, chickens, olives, honey and lamb, Andrew and Lisa Margan's sustainability stamp is all over a very appealing menu. Andrew is the estate's winemaker and Lisa runs the kitchen alongside the ex-head chef at Sydney's Quarter 21 and Becasse, Michael Robinson. The modern dining room has minimal decor but hums with diners, and wine matched to each dish minimises decision-making. Wagyu carpaccio joins a medley of mushrooms and anchovy beignets for a seriously good salt-crunch lift. Sweetcorn veloute, surrounding islands of confit chicken and caramelised scallop, is a hat-trick. Red emperor atop a tussle of squid ink spaghettini is kept light with the tang of preserved lemon. Many of the main dishes can be ordered in entree size, which helps accommodate crisp, pastry-based tarte tatin made with apples from the orchard and cinnamon ice-cream.