Maris

Locals often bring out a good bottle when heading to this smart-casual BYO-friendly husband-and-wife run bistro. The menu's undergone a change in the past year - now smaller, less Italian-inspired, more ambitious, and you may find suckling pig, wagyu beef and roast duck account for three of five mains. To whet your appetite, try chicken and foie gras parfait, with prune jelly and brioche. Too sweet? A busy tumble of calamari, chickpeas, chorizo, fennel, yoghurt and pomegranate satisfies more savoury cravings. Sher wagyu cheek is rich and tender, braised with red wine, star anise and coriander seeds. Using a variety of cuts from suckling pig can be hit-and-miss and picking for morsels of tasty meat may be fiddly; the dish comes with light pumpkin puree with a perky sprinkle of ground coffee. Desserts are good and simpler, a highlight being Valrhona chocolate crumble with house-made honeycomb icecream.