Marque

The discreet exterior matches an equally subtle interior, home to one of Sydney's most imaginative menus. Seasonal ingredients, global references and multiple techniques come together in a 10-course magical mystery tour, with many highlights along the way. Soft goat's cheese - a perfect globe - sits with folds of soft calamari in a puddle of tomato consomme. There's a joyful see-saw between sweet and sour in a sheath of green tomato and potato 'paper' draped across slices of blue-eye trevalla and served with a 'fish milk' based on white soy and roe. But some experiments in texture and temperature seemed less successful than in previous times, as in dried 'autumn leaves' on over-moist mushrooms, and blitzed frozen foie dust on warm crab custard. A rich venison royale is sensational, however, as is malted chocolate mousse - in the thinnest shell - served with quivering persimmon. While service can veer from stiff to casual, Marque remains an intriguing dining adventure.