Marque

Sleek, glossy surfaces give little away, appropriately enough, as Marque defies pigeonholes. With this study in understated glamour – a subtle statement chandelier and linen-clad tables decorated with softly diffusing lamps, Mark Best has a blank canvas to work his magic. His oh-so-modern menu – degustation only – bristles with highlights including razor-thin slices of smoked eel with parmesan ‘gnocchi’ and sweet, citrus-spiked pumpkin consomme, or the stark brilliance of rare wagyu draped over fermented cabbage. The meal proceeds without a menu, creating a beguiling element of surprise, from a painterly prawn with cucumber ash to a stunning, Asian-esque glossy-skinned quail with miso carrot puree. The performance is so virtuostic that a rare misstep – a bland almond gazpacho and spanner crab – is perhaps unfairly amplified. However, dining at Marque remains one of the Sydney dining experiences, complete with staff confident enough to leave the pomp at home.

And … The sauternes custard enjoys classic status.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Chilled-out gastro-temple.
Best bit The modern rock soundtrack. Oasis, anyone?
Worst bit Excellent house-baked bread turns up well into the meal.