Masala Craft

Thornbury Theatre exudes northside cool upstairs, but at ground level this Indian restaurant marches to the beat of its own drum with Bollywood movies at low volume on all four televisions, a kitsch rainbow chandelier and linen napkins folded into crowns at each setting. From the long, 120-dish menu, share a dark brown, spicy tangle of onion bhaji, or excellent tandoor-cooked mushrooms. Follow, perhaps, with malai kofta - mashed potato and cheese dumplings with a textured cashew and almond sauce - or tender, tasty south Indian 'mutton pepper fry'.