Mask of China

More than 25 years ago, Mask of China carved a niche serving Chiu Chow cuisine - a regional variation in the southern Chinese style that dominated the city's Chinese restaurants for decades. Chiu Chow is relatively light, with seafood as its speciality; expect abalone, crab and whole fish steamed or lightly sauteed. In comparison to the fiery Sichuan and rustic northern styles now more commonly found around town, Chiu Chow could seem almost bland. But it has a subtlety its northern counterparts lack, made possible at Mask of China by the use of fresh, high-quality ingredients, served with style and care. After a little cup of digestion-readying tea (a hallmark of Chiu Chow), you might start with a pomegranate dumpling - diced chicken in eggwhite pastry - named for its size and shape. Follow with perhaps spicy quail, deboned, pan-fried and tossed in five-spice. Apart from seafood, there's a smattering of meat dishes, including beef in peppery chinjew sauce. In season you may spot game, like venison, wild boar and squab.