Matteo's

There's a glorious interplay between formality and flamboyance in the Matteo's dining room, an irreverent but plush vision of draped lighting, plum velvet seating and cerulean-blue curtaining. Brendan McQueen's Asian-inflected food - elaborate, inventive, elegant - suits the surrounds. Yellowfin sashimi, dressed with wasabi 'guacamole', glistens, though technicians will be even more impressed by the accompanying kumato tomato. braised but structurally sound and stuffed with an olive and seaweed tapenade. Boldly flavoured mains might include duck done two ways. the breast roasted with a blood orange and hoisin sauce, the leg as a pressed-confit patty, its richness offset by an iridescent nashi pear fondant and Sichuan-pickled cucumber. A 'Golden Gaytime' is a playful closer. Service gets both the small things (say, pouring by-the-glass at table) and big things (a spirit of hospitality) right.