May Street Larder

It's very easy to like May Street Larder, a hip new joint tucked away in a decidedly unhip shopping centre in East Fremantle. It's as easy as falling off a log. Or, in my case, falling off a chair.

Just when I thought I had committed every embarrassing dining-out sin imaginable I tumbled off my (very hip) three-legged stool into the arms of a bemused stranger at the next table.

I can't even blame it on chardonnay, as May Street Larder has yet to get a liquor licence, and currently offers no BYO. I can't blame it on the paleo diet or organic food or quinoa – the super healthy foods offered here -- or that pesky kale. I hadn't taken a bite of anything.

Instead, I blame it on the owner, WA swimming legend, Eamon Sullivan, who has recently turned his passion for the old-fashioned larder into this light-filled, joyous café which is proving every bit as popular as his beachside eatery, Bib&Tucker.

Perched at a round, distressed table made from an old meat shaver, I spotted the Olympian walking towards me and I leapt up to offer congratulations on his recent engagement to lawyer Naomi Bass. That's when I fell backwards, quite spectacularly, into an embarrassing heap.

Sullivan reacted as any former freestyle world-record holder would. He stretched out one strong arm, scooped me up, laughed uproariously and promised not to delete the CCCTV footage. Thanks Eamon.

From such undignified beginnings things managed to pick up remarkably. That's thanks to the bright, breezy, wholesome fare effortlessly turned out by chef Scott Bridger – who is also a co-owner in both venues with Sullivan, Steve Hooker and Jamie Dwyer.

The Bib&Tucker team have once again tapped into the West Australian psyche to come up with a refreshing ambience and a menu to match, and this time without the lure of a stunning ocean view. With the help of designer Claire Ryan and Sullivan's antique shop finds like butter churners and old ingredient signs, they have managed, somehow, to turn an old Red Rooster outlet looking over a carpark into a gem.

Things are kept simple, democratic and user friendly. Despite catering for all dietary requirements -- from gluten free to vegan and raw food through to the "bring-it-on" brigade who love waffles and fried chicken -- the ordering procedure is all no fuss.

Choose from the short menu and pay at the counter. Add a drink: chocolate milk shake, house-made soda, cold-pressed Soda, a smoothie or Campos coffee. Help yourself to water. Sit down. Relax with the girls. Fall off your chair. Spend three hours laughing about it.

I am a sucker for a pulled pork sanger ($21) and this one pretty much summed up how good casual lunchtime dining in Perth can be.

Slow-cooked pork shoulder was at its sweet, spicy best with a good whack of chilli heat when piled high with crunchy shredded red cabbage, a dollop of chipotle, and sandwiched between thick slices of gutsy ciabatta. And proving the larder connection, there were florets of pickled cauliflower, carrot and celery. On the top were deep-fried sweet potato crisps. Sensational.

A broken taco salad ($12) offered a new take on guacamole and this one was all class. All the components were there in lightly mashed avocado atop ridiculously fresh cherry tomatoes a crumbling of good, nicely soft feta and the crispy fried tacos.

A simple salad can be one of the hardest things to pull off with no place to hide for below par asparagus spears or sludgey rocket. Fortunately both in this one were top notch and the thin, just slightly crunchy bundle of spears were done to perfection and the rocket glistening with vincotto dressing. On the side was an orange surprise – persimmon which wasn't on the menu, but it worked.

To finish, our trio had to try what everybody else is talking about, the famed coco whip – a dessert which tastes like it should have you counting calories for the next week but is actually sugar free. Made from the new miracle drink, natural coconut water, it's churned into a kind of soft serve. Refreshing, light and smooth.

Just like May Street Larder really. A place where you can have lunch and buy a loaf of bread, a jar of jam and a house-smoked piece of brisket on the way out. That's why I'm head over heels in love with it.

Scoring system:

0-10 Don't waste your money

11-15 Worth a look

16-20 Put it on your bucket list