May’s Laksa House

Weekdays, this Malaysian cafeteria-style joint in North Sydney’s Berry Square mall hustles and bustles like it’s in KL itself. The buzz starts early and doesn’t subside till 2pm, when the bees return to work. It’s a short run but this business-district favourite serves up enough of its made-to-order specialities - laksa, Hainanese chicken rice and roti canai with chicken curry - to keep business in good stead. The flavours are authentic, particularly when it comes to the stocks and broths. The laksa soup is complex, layered and not overwhelmed by coconut milk or oil. This is return-for hawker food at bargain prices.