Mexicano

Free of kitsch-Mex paraphernalia, this tiny beachside margarita shack pays due respect to the fun yet authentic flavours of Mexican street food, with atmosphere to match. Cheery, up-to-speed waiters ride the Mexican wave with ease, allowing locals to pull up a stool at communal tables and order a raft of share-style, Mex-inspired plates. Wheat and corn masa flour tortillas are pressed daily, and a focus on fine produce comes to the fore in dishes such as a ceviche of opaque Spencer Gulf prawns in a cocktail of jelly, avocado and chilli. In-season baby beets are pickled then paired with creamy goat's cheese and sweet candied walnuts. While there can be some inconsistencies (unbalanced flavours in a quesadilla, for example), tacos here are some of Sydney's best. Braised brisket with salsa is just the right kind of zingy, smoky and spicy parcel everyone's after. Pear and cinnamon fritters filled with custard round off one hell of a party.