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Mikoshi

Japanese$$

The staff's enthusiastic, genuine welcome is infectious, like you've accepted an invitation into their home. In the dining room you'll find a cosy, russet-coloured space with big-windowed views to St Kilda's goings on. Sashimi is excellent: super-fresh and correctly cool, not cold. The usual suspects: tuna, salmon and kingfish are the go. Flavour-packed chicken gyoza and smoky, seared beef tataki will please traditionalists, but how about a 'chicken dog'? It's like a 'sushi roll' but not. Topped with grilled teriyaki chicken strips, fried shallots and creamy wasabi mayo, it's a fine lunchtime treat. Prices do get lofty; a good beef ramen is $22. Order wisely, it's worth it.

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