Mini Bar @ The Inch

Some venues live and die by the weather and this is one of them. On a very dreary Saturday night, the Mini Cooper-sponsored bar at The Inch feels just that - a bit dreary. Come on a sunny summer evening, however, and you can sprawl out onto the paving that fronts the Pittwater Council building and sit in the open-air restaurant looking over Kitchener Park.

WHEN IT'S GREY OUTSIDE it's grey inside. The plastic walls are zipped up and it feels a bit like we're inside a cheap marquee. Regardless of the weather, there's an unfinished feel to the main dining space. Pipes are exposed, the ground is rough and the tables are mismatched, and not in the funky vintage way. There's also an odd banquette that runs along one side of the room without any obvious use on this particular night. Lighting is poor and rather than a candle on our table, we're given a mini neon torch with which to read the menu. Weird.

THE MAIN DINING SPACE is altogether a bit bland and odd but even odder is the fact that the tiny bar area in one corner of the room is decorated beautifully. In complete contrast to the rest of the room, the bar has warm timber, soft lighting and a smattering of wrought iron stools. You can eat your dinner here but, unless you want a very sore bottom, the metal stools are really only for those having a quick drink or two. On the other side of the room is another little timber alcove for a live musician who is playing some nice covers. But it begs the question, why is the rest of the place decorated so blandly? And why aren't there any tables and chairs in the nice little alcove rather than the guitarist?

ENOUGH GRUMBLING THOUGH and on to the drink and food. The latter is lovely. At the helm is owner/chef Wayne Rowe who has worked at Bambini Trust and as Lachlan and Sarah Murdoch's personal chef. Gently fried whitebait ($15) are delicate and moreish although the aioli could do with the same feathery touch. Chorizo comes with a nice combo of artichoke, rocket and anchovies ($12) and the smooth duck pate on crispy sourdough ($14) starts us off well. Just as the food lands on our table with a couple of cocktails, we're asked to produce ID. I've left mine in the car (OK, that's my fault) but I'm a little annoyed I have to walk 10 minutes to get it while our food sits on the table going cold.

THE WINE AND COCKTAIL LISTS are sufficient but expect the basics only. From the list of classic cocktails we have the Pimms (with ginger beer and fresh fruit, $13), which is too syrupy sweet, and a really nice Mojito ($15) that comes in a massive tumbler. This would horrify cocktail purists but more Mojito for my buck is fine with me. With a bowl of some of the sweetest and best fresh king prawns ($24) I've ever had, the Alta Sauvignon Blanc ($8) goes down well but the list is fairly, well, grey.

THE CAR SPONSORSHIP doesn't seem to reach past the name and free brochures on your way in. I'm a bit confused by it all but the saving grace is the laid-back northern beaches service and some good grub and the hope that when the sun shines so will this place.

YOU’LL LOVE IT IF you’re after a laid-back summertime dinner and drinks spot.

YOU’LL HATE IT IF it’s raining.

GO FOR share plates, Mojito, king prawns.

IT’LL COST YOU cocktails $13-$15, wine by the glass $6-$9, bottled beer $6-$7, share plates $3-$16, mains $20-$26.