The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Mirka Continental Bistro

Mirka Continental Bistro Article Lead - narrow
Mirka Continental Bistro Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14/20

European$$$

On Fitzroy Street girls stagger in too-high heels and police lights flash. Viewed through Mirka's big picture window, the scene unfolds like a silent movie. Inside, it's a world away: waitresses swish about in slinky green frocks and artist Mirka Mora's frisky angels and serpents beam down from the walls. Five years after its relaunch under Guy Grossi, the ambience is warm and professional, as is service (although it can be distracted at times). Food may be 'continental', but it's more sophisticated than that. Light, fresh starters include creamy Russian salad of spanner crab, or flavoursome chicken and prosciutto pressed into a slice of terrine. For mains, perhaps sweet rock flathead fillet, with clams, piquillo peppers and borlotti beans. Tuscan kale's bitterness is set off by radish and salted ricotta in a revelatory salad. Tiramisu is lush and creamy but could do with a greater punch of liqueur and coffee. Its dramatic entrance is flawless, in a huge bowl from which a generous slice is scooped.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement