MJR Tom

I recently spent 40 minutes in a bar (where else?) arguing with a friend that all-day venues should be avoided. He said any joint open for breakfast cannot be worth visiting for dinner – it's simply spreading itself too thin. These days we prefer our dining destinations to be as specific as possible, like a savoury soft-serve truck open every second Thursday during summer. But what about Cumulus Inc, I said. What about Kirk's Wine Bar? And what about MJR Tom?

Head chef Sam Kearney recently overhauled the menu at the new-ish all-rounder, and it's as confident serving Latin-influenced breakfast first thing on a Monday as it is lobbing tapas bites after work or creative cocktails to Collingwood kids on a bender.

It's a one of the better refits in the city, too: the ghost of previous tenant Pasha's Turkish Restaurant is nowhere to be found. It's like a Scandi forest has exploded, with honey-coloured wood on the roof, the floor, the walls. The space is a bit back-to-front, with a large shared table behind a glass garage door opening onto the street, and a corridor of banquette seating leading past an open kitchen to an island bar at the back surrounded by sleek booths that are tailor-made for first dates.

Co-owner Harry Tsiaples has run another all-day venture Cafe Paradiso in Camberwell for more than 25 years and joins forces here with fresh blood Nick Tiktikakis, who deftly manages the floor.

The drinks menu features a solid list of high-end cocktails, including the sessionable Dark and Spacey, which is a sugary blend of Brookvale alcoholic ginger beer from 4 Pines poured over spiced rum with a twist of fresh lime. More high-spirited options include the Sidewayz No.2 (don't ask what happened to No.1), a heady mix of gin, Aperol and absinthe.

They take craft beer seriously, too, with a fun tasting board featuring four pony glasses of amber fresh from the taps presented on corresponding coasters, from a sunny German Konig Pilsener to a vibrant limited-edition Nail ESB pale ale from Western Australia.

Food goes around the clock, with small bites ranging from booze-friendly staples (croquettes, chorizo) to more experimental fare. The Mac on Crack is a slab of baby blue mackerel on a bitter squid ink rice cracker that gets points for originality but was confrontingly fishy and heavily dressed in balsamic.

Generous "raciones" are safer, including moreish fried chicken with smoked chilli jam and the Magnifico MJR nachos, a paella pan of corn chips drowning in cinnamon-spiked chilli con carne and all the trimmings – a stoner's dream, to be sure. It's an affable, easygoing affair that transitions from brunch bustle to slinky low-lit bar with flair. There's something here for everyone, even my argumentative mate.

Drink this: Craft beer tasting board, $16.

Eat this: MJR fried chicken, $14.50.

Know this: The set menu is well priced at $39.

Say this: "I'm still sad about Bowie."